The Questscapes Guide to Prince William Sound
Chasing spring in south central alaska
In the heart of the Chugach, where towering peaks cradle icy blue fjords, we embarked on a month-long journey through Prince William Sound from May through June of 2024. Here, the seasons waltz to a different rhythm; spring arrived late, trailing Southeast Alaska by a full month. Reflecting on our voyage, we mused that lingering deeper into summer's embrace might have unveiled a more temperate realm. Yet simultaneously, the winter of 2024 was one for the storybooks—locals in every harbor spoke of record snowfall. We found ourselves dreaming of an earlier arrival, perhaps one or two months prior, when skis and snowboards could have carved paths from mountaintops straight to the sea. The terrain offered it all, from gentle slopes to formidable chutes, and bushwhacking was surprisingly minimal. If only we had brought our skis, if only the winds had carried us here a little sooner.
Harvard Glacier in College Fiord
Prince William Sound borders the vast Chugach National Forest—an expanse of approximately 5.4 million acres, making it the second-largest national forest in the United States. Here, glaciers don't merely adorn the landscape; they sculpt it. More than a third of the Chugach is glaciated, with these ancient rivers of ice feeding the region's waterfalls, forests, and fjords. The Columbia Glacier alone contributes significantly to the snowmelt coursing into the Sound.
S/v Arcturus in Blackstone Bay
After a wing-on-wing run from Kayak Island, we entered Prince William Sound through Hinchinbrook Entrance, anchoring in Garden Cove beneath cliffs and trees still holding tight to their snowy mantles. This tranquil haven provided a much-needed respite to recoup. At the head of Port Etches, a large oil spill response barge lies permanently moored. Hinchinbrook Entrance is a nexus of maritime activity, with vessels navigating strong currents and the vigilant presence of seal rocks.We lingered for a couple of nights on the eastern side of the Sound in Port Gravina, where we observed a gentler topography. The eastern reaches of Prince William Sound unfold with less dramatic peaks compared to the rugged grandeur of the western fjords, offering a serene contrast to begin our journey.
Northern Glacial Carved Fjords
Columbia Glacier: The Vanishing Giant
Columbia Glacier, the largest glacier in the Sound, stands as a testament to rapid environmental transformation. Since the early 1980s, it has retreated over 10.5 miles, relinquishing half its volume—a staggering and sobering change. Navigating up the West Arm felt like entering a realm both barren and raw, where tidewater glaciers remain unnamed, and the fjord itself seems to mourn its former expanse. The glacier's swift retreat is palpable, like witnessing the pages of history being torn away before one's eyes.
Columbia Glacier
Seals on ice flow near Columbia Glacier
Columbia Bay
The inaccuracies of charts and satellite imagery rendered the West Arm an explorer’s dream—a largely uncharted expanse where curiosity guided us around each rocky bend. Aboard our steel-hulled vessel, well-suited for penetrating dense ice packs, we embraced the spirit of discovery. Home to three unnamed tide-water glaciers, the walls of the West Arm are some of the most barren fjord walls we’ve yet seen. 
Columbia Glacier West Arm
Columbia Glacier West Arm
Emerald Cove near Columbia Glacier
Glacier Island: Wild Greens and Glacial Dreams
Our quest to observe puffins led us to Glacier Island twice, but the puffins presence remained elusive with cooler temperatures lingers. On the southern shore, we anchored in Chamberlain Bay and discovering a bounty of edible beach greens and devil’s club buds. Louie, an avid forager, delighted in cooking the young buds—peppery and reminiscent of Alaskan Brussels sprouts. Across the island's narrow waist to the north, we hiked to Growler Bay which afforded us views north into the Columbia Arm, where views of ice fields perched precariously atop mountains appeared to spill over the edge of the world—a stark contrast to the glacial landscapes of Southeast Alaska. While Chamberlain Bay provided a pleasant stay, Glacier Island offers numerous anchorages, all reasonably charted and inviting further exploration.
Orca whales at Glacier Island
Chamberlain Bay on Glacier Island
Glacier Island
Devils Club Bud HArvest on Glacier Island
Chamberlain Bay, Glacier Island
NAVIGATIONAL CONSIDERATIONS:
When heading west from Glacier Island to Fairmount Island, calm and protected anchorages exist, however, depths are not accurately charted, and the area is riddled with underwater pinnacles. Proceed slowly and cautiously, keeping a vigilant eye on depth soundings.
Meares Glacier: The Icy Anomaly
Situated in Unakwik Inlet within the Chugach National Forest, Meares Glacier defies the regional trend of retreating glaciers by advancing approximately 50 feet annually. Louie gazed with awe as the glacier's relentless progress showed evidence consumed entire trees—a striking inversion of the typical glacial narrative of ever present retreat. Where retreating glaciers unveil barren stone, Meares presents an ice wall encroaching upon vibrant forest. We anchored in Miners Bay, where waterfalls cascaded from towering heights. For me it evoking memories of Yosemite and offering a vivid, real-time display of glaciation's dynamic interplay with the surrounding environment.
Meares Glacier
Meares Glacier
S/v Arcturus Boat Garden
Meares Glacier
Miners Bay near Meares Glacier
College Fiord: Ivy League Ice
Shortly before our sails filled in Prince William Sound, I had been reading "Tip of the Iceberg" by Mark Adams, a modern echo of the 1899 Harriman Expedition that named this iconic fjord. The glaciers lining its flanks bear the names of elite colleges—Vassar, Wellesley, Barnard to the northwest; Harvard and Yale to the southeast. The British-style spelling "Fiord" stands out among Alaskan waterways, a nod to the expedition’s preferences. At the fjord's head looms Harvard Glacier, the second-largest tidewater glacier in the Sound, stretching 24 miles from the Chugach Icefield to a 1.5-mile-wide terminus rising over 200 feet above the sea.
Harvard Glacier in College Fiord
S/V Arcturus at Harvard Glacier in College Fiord
College Fiord
Harvard Glacier in College Fiord
Bald Eagle in ice Flow
We returned to College Fiord multiple times, consistently drawn to the anchorage at Coghill Bay—one of the most spectacular in Prince William Sound when not overrun with fishing boats. From there, the Coghill Trail leads to a lake, a river, and a Forest Service cabin. The trailhead, located on the northeastern shore of the bay, can be challenging to find but is marked by a clear Forest Service sign once you are close to the beach. While Prince William Sound offers numerous wild trails, most are tied to towns or roads; this was one of only two we found entirely boat-access-only.NAVIGATIONAL CONSIDERATIONS: Passage into College Fiord through Esther Passage is spectacular but requires caution. Charts lack complete accuracy, with some rocks noted without detailed information. For the intrepid explorer, transiting this channel is rewarding, but vigilance with depth soundings and preparedness to navigate around mid-channel rocks are essential. Additionally, in College Fiord and Port Wells, be mindful of gillnet fishing boats, which may have extensive nets deployed.
College Fiord
Lerina & Louie at Harvard Glacier
College Fiord
College Fiord
Western Waters
Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Bay may be the closest thing we've seen to Iceland's dramatic landscapes. Here, immense icefields spill into the sea, and two tidewater glaciers—Blackstone and Beloit—command the scenery. Blackstone Glacier stands stately, accompanied by a singular, roaring waterfall, while Beloit Glacier presents a gentler facade, with delicate ribbons of meltwater cascading down to the sea. On the north side of the bay lies the largest seagull rookery we've ever witnessed, nestled beside yet another grand waterfall tumbling from the rich black stone.
Entrance to Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Glacier
Mountains of Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Bay & Blackstone Glacier
Blackstone's beauty and accessibility from Whittier draw many visitors, with tour boats, jet ski tours, float plane charters, and kayak trips frequenting the area during peak daylight hours. However, if you time it right, as we did, the early mornings and late evenings are your own. In those quiet hours, we paddled its serene corners, enveloped in the stillness and majesty of this glacial sanctuary.
Beloit Glacier in Blackstone Bay
Waterfall in Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Bay
Beloit Glacier in Blackstone Bay
Blackstone Bay
Port Nellie Juan & Nellie Juan Glacier
Hidden deep within a fjord of the same name, Nellie Juan Glacier tumbles in brilliant, jagged blue from the Chugach Icefield. The surrounding terrain is shaped by steep granite cliffs and a scatter of cascading waterfalls, echoing the grandeur of the more famous fjords yet offering a solitude unmatched. Derickson Bay offers one of the best anchorages nearby, a quiet place to launch kayaks and slip silently toward the glacier’s face.
Otters in Prince William Sound
“The Other” Icy Bay
Distinct from the more renowned Icy Bay along the outer coast, this lesser-known namesake within Prince William Sound is home to the actively calving Chenega Glacier. The bay's interior often remains filled with ice, limiting access to areas like Tiger Glacier. Finding an anchorage outside of the inlet would be recommended, as the ice flow is heavy, and anchorages within the inlet are rather deep.
Chenega Glacier
S/V Arcturus
Cliffs near Chenega Glacier
Chenega Glacier
Knight Island
We spent just a single night at Knight Island, its rugged charm barely tasted before we had to press westward. The island's dramatic fjords and secluded coves offer excellent opportunities for kayaking and exploration over its 107 square miles of rugged terrain. Historically, Knight Island's eastern and northwestern shorelines were heavily impacted by the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill, with significant oil coverage affecting the area. Today, the island's diverse marine environments and rich history continue to attract adventurers seeking to experience its unique landscapes and wildlife.
Summer boat Garden on S/V Arcturus
Ports of the Sound
Cordova
Cordova stands as a quintessential Alaskan town—crafted for its residents rather than tailored for tourists. The lifeblood of its economy is fishing, notably the esteemed Copper River salmon. Our exploration led us to the Cordova Historical Museum, which proudly houses the original Fresnel lens from Cape St. Elias. Venturing out of town, going “out the Road" in Cordova feels like uncovering a secret pathway into Alaska's heartland—expansive fields, profound silence, and roads that seem to lead both nowhere and everywhere. Snow impeded our journey to the famed Million Dollar Bridge, but even the partial trek offered its own rewards.
Cordova, Alaska
Mountains outside Cordova
Views from Copper River Highway
Copper River Highway outside Cordova
Closer to town, Sheridan Glacier emerged as a highlight of our voyage. Situated approximately 15 miles from Cordova, this glacier ranks among Alaska's most accessible, thanks to an access road branching from the Copper River Highway. A brief 1.5-mile hike guided us to the glacier's lake, where trails lined with lupines unveiled stunning vistas of icebergs and tranquil waters. In winter, locals are known to ice skate amidst the frozen icebergs—a testament to the glacier's year-round allure.
Sheridan Glacier
Sheridan Glacier
Sheridan Glacier
Sheridan Glacier
Navigational Considerations: Reaching Cordova from Prince William Sound's entrance necessitates navigating the main channel or opting for shortcuts via the Orca or Odiak Channels. Both channels are accurately charted in Navionics; however, due to our vessel's draft and the prevailing currents, we favored the Orca Channel, just north of Observation Island. Commercial fishermen, operating high-powered gillnet fleets, frequently use the shallow channel south of town. Anchoring near the harbor during fleet returns can subject one to the passage of over a hundred boats traveling at full speed, making it a less than tranquil anchorage.
Valdez
Our approach to Valdez was akin to entering a dreamscape—fog and sunlight interlaced to create a serene harbor encircled by towering mountains. The peaks, adorned with late spring snow, soared around us, while the waters below shimmered with a glacial turquoise hue. Valdez Arm ranks among the most picturesque locales we've sailed, presenting a natural amphitheater of rock and sky. Although weather conditions and resupply needs abbreviated our stay, we managed visits to the local breweries—Growler Bay Brewing and Valdez Brewing—which infused our experience with local flavor. With road access, Valdez attracts a diverse crowd: a small city of RVs and van dwellers nestled throughout the town, forming their own kind of wandering community.
Valdez Boat Harbor
Navigational Considerations: A traffic control area extends from Tongue Point to Entrance Island. All vessels must communicate with Valdez Vessel Traffic Control and proceed as directed. It's common for smaller vessels to transit simultaneously; however, larger ships have limited maneuverability in this confined passage. Smaller crafts can navigate between Middle Rock and the shore to provide ample space for these sizable vessels.
Whittier
Whittier stands as one of Alaska's most unique ports, and is just as strange as the rumors. Nearly the entire population resides within a single 14-story edifice known as Begich Towers—a remnant of its military heritage. Supplies were limited, and the town exuded the ambiance of a brief cruise ship stopover rather than a traditional settlement. However, its proximity to Anchorage via road positions Whittier as a pivotal gateway. Begich Towers, originally constructed for the Army barracks during the Cold War, now functions as a self-contained community hub, housing apartments, essential services, and public facilities.
Blackstone Bay near Whittier
As we bid farewell to the serene fjords and majestic glaciers of Prince William Sound, we cherished the memories made yet eagerly anticipated the journey ahead. With summer in full bloom, we set our sights westward, drawn toward the rugged coastlines of the Kenai Peninsula and the storied shores of Kodiak Island, ready to embrace the new adventures that awaited us.Adventures, Words & Photos by Lerina Winter & Captain Louis Hoock
REFERENCE LINKSPrince William Sound Regional Citizens' Advisory Council: Columbia GlacierEarth Observatory: Columbia GlacierThe Columbia Glacier: Climate Change and Glacial DynamicsUSDA Forest Service: Chugach National ForestCalving Speed of Alaska Tidewater Glaciers, With Application to Columbia GlacierAlaska.Org: Sheridan Glacier Lake Trail
